FINISHING THE CABIN PAGE 2
After the cuts were made , I dressed the angles on the belt sander (left). Uh-Oh! I laid the lines out in reverse (right). I wonder if I am dyslexic. I do this constantly and I usually catch it by double checking. I decide that this won't hurt anything and had I not pointed it out no one would have noticed.
Below left I am in the process of laying out a rivet pattern to attach a hinge to the brace with the help of a rivet fan. Below right, I transfer the holes from one seat back brace to the other by clamping them together first.
The last bit of drilling is to drill the other hinge half to the seat back (left). At right below are two seat backs ready for prime and paint
The next project is to dimple the floor panels Notice the fuselage in the background. It is still upside down. Below right I am dimpling screw holes without removing the coating. This is a test. This test proves the the holes can be dimpled without removing coating from the outside. I wanted to see if the coating would come out of the dimples easily. It did but only on the recessed or outside part of the dimple. The coating hung on to the protruding part of the dimple to the point that I decided to remove coating from the inside like always. From now on though, I will not remove the coating from the rivet lines until I am ready to rivet.
Below left is the right aft seat floor. The rear hinge is going to get nutplates because it covers three attach screws. I used K1100-06 nutplates and I dimpled the hinge and the floor for them. At the right below is a photo I took after I dimpled the flanges of F-704 for K1100-08 (dimpled) nutplates. The new nutplates are installed. If this flange was any larger, I would have countersunk the holes instead.
In order to install nutplates on the outboard seat ribs, P/N F-715-L and F-715-R, I had to remove them (below left). I used mostly MS21049L08K nutplates on these ribs. As I explained elsewhere, these nutplates are already dimpled. There are three one eared nutplates on each rib that had to have the rivet holes dimpled (the part number escapes me).
Below left is a picture of the seat backs cleco'd to the floor panels which are cleco'd to the seat ribs. Below right is a picture of the baggage floors cleco'd in place. Everything fits. I think I shall drink several beers in celebration tonight. (Actually I only drank two. That is the most I ever drink any more.)
The part that I worked on next is the piece called the tunnel cover. I built and assembled it per the plans knowing that I may not actually use it. The first thing is to lay out cut lines on the prescribed "Z" angle (below left). Next is to cut the parts on a band saw. Photo below right shows the parts after they were cut.
Next is to pick up the holes in the floor (left). Then it is time to make the top (right). The top gets a little bend.
Want to see how I put the little bend in the part? Well you are going to anyway. I put the part between two of the leaves of the Black and Decker Workmate. I then tapped gently with a mallet. (Photos below)
Next I layed out rivet holes with the rivet fan (left). I then transferred those holes to the assembly (right)
The rear baggage bulkheads are next. Right off the bat I had a brainstorm (or a brain fart?). Since the baggage sides had an angle whereby the were attached to the vertical webs of the F-706 bulkhead, and further the F-751 lower bulkhead overlapped them slightly, I thought it would looh better if the F-751 was trimmed so that only the corrugation overlapped the baggage side panels. The first thing to do was to carefully lay out the trim lines. I drilled a 1/4" hole at each corner of the trim lint (below left). I then trimmed with a Dremmel tool. The finished product is at right below.
Next, I had to figure out how to lay out the 10 & 5/8" radius on the upper baggage bulkhead P/N F-652. Right straight to Lowe's I went, to purchase this giant compass (below left). The little pencil wouldn't write on the coating so I put some masking tape where the line was to be. In the picture at right I am trimming the bulkhead on the scroll saw.
Below left is the F-652 ready to be drilled. Obviously, I drilled the upper and lower baggage bulkheads by the time the photo below right was taken because these clecos are holding MS21049L08K nutplates to the F-706 in anticipation of riveting them in place.
The photo below left shows an F-756-R gusset riveted to the F-706 bulkhead with AN470AD4-4 rivets. The drawing called out AN426AD4-4 for the gussets that are attached to the F-706 because the baggage bulkheads overlap them. Below right is a photo after I removed the rivets, dimpled the holes, and installed AN426AD4-4 rivets.
Next is the installation of the plastic rub strips for the shoulder harness cables. These photos below show the installation. The drawing calls out to install these parts with pop rivets but I am going to use screws instead.
There is a boot ring that gets fabricated per drawing #34 which is the installation of the Center Cabin Cover. The boot ring goes around the holes in the forward seat floors. I thought it might be more appropriate to discuss it in this section so here goes. The P/N of these boot rings is F-7110-L and F-7110-R. The first thing to do is to make 2 plates to the dimension in the drawing (5 and 1/32" by 5 and 7/16"). Then a bend is put in each plate. The drawing gives a dimension but I used my machinist protractor and set it to the angle of the floor (below left). Next, I laid out lines on each plate for minimum edge distance per the plans. I laid the plates on the floor panels and transferred the holes from the floor panels to the plates (below right).