The aileron control assembly process started when I bolted the P/N WD-421R bell crank assembly to the spar before the bottom skins were installed.  The next step was to cut the AT6-035X1.125 tubing to the length of 65 25/32” per drawing 15A.  See the “Left Wing Aileron and Controls” section for details of cutting the tubing. 


Aileron bell crank P/N WD-421R Aileron pushrod (wing to fuselage) P/N W-716


After the tubing was cut and de-burred I installed a VA-111 rod end retainer in each end.  These retainers get attached with six blind fasteners each.  The photo at right above shows me drilling that tube and the retainer on a drill press.  The holes are .6” apart exactly.  I put masking tape around the tube and cut it so that the ends touched each other. I then removed the tape and measured its length.  The length was 3.6”.  Divide that by six and you get 0.6.  I made a line on the tape ¼” from the edge.  I then made five marks on the line starting 0.6” from one end of the tape.  The end of the tape is actually the first mark.  I then drilled each mark on a drill press with a #30 drill (the left aileron narrative shows pictures of this process).  I did not use the fasteners that were supplied in the kit. I used CR3213-4-3 Cherry Max blind rivets instead.  These were designed for aircraft use and I feel more comfortable with them.  After the VA-111 retainers were installed, I installed the two P/N M3614M rod ends.  The plans call for a total length from the center of one rod end to the center of the other rod end of 69 9/32” With one of the rod ends turned 90° in relation to the other.  I wonder where they get a measurement in 1/32 of and inch on something this long that will probably need to be adjusted again?  At any rate after I adjusted the total length I tightened the jam nuts on each rod end and called it a “W-716R Pushrod Assembly.”


W-716R to WD-421R Inboard end of W-716
Left and right W-818 pushrods W-818R attached to WD-421R


After the fabrication of the W-716R was complete I attached it to the WD-421R (upper left photo above).  I put tape around the lightening hole at the inboard end to protect the tube and the hole until the wing is attached to the fuselage (upper right photo above).  I then fabricated two W-818 pushrods per drawing 15A (lower left photo above). I forgot to take pictures during the fabrication process.  I then attached one to the WD-421R per drawing 15A (lower right photo above).  The other one is for the aileron on the left wing.


RH aileron parts Leading edge cleco'd together


If you read the narrative on the left aileron you will know that I brought the ailerons to Florida to assemble.  In the photo at left above, I have laid the right aileron parts out on the workbench to start the process of assembly.  First is to cleco it together starting with the leading edge assembly.  I put the galvanized pipe balance weight in at this time and drilled it to match the leading edge (upper right).


Drilling the inboard end rib Drilling the inboard end rib

These two photos show the end ribs being drilled.  They have no holes like most of the other parts do but there are hole in the skin.

Dimpling the aileron skin Priming the aileron parts


Above left you find me dimpling the right aileron skin.  At right I am in the process of priming the detail parts.  There really aren't too many more parts to prime on this project so I have not built another paint booth for my garage in Florida.  Yes, I did etch and alodine prior to priming.  I used a gray Scotchbrite pad during the etch process to rough up the parts a little bit.  I read somewhere that this helps the primer to stick and also gets the parts cleaner prior to alodine.


Assembly has started The "balance weight" is attached to the spar

In these two photos you can see that I have started to assemble the right aileron.  I riveted the leading edge end ribs to the spar first.  This is much easier to do now then if you wait until the leading edge skin is on like I did on the left aileron.  Next I attached the balance weight to the end ribs.  I did not photo it but I countersunk the holes in the balance weight and dimpled the leading edge by using a dimple die in a special rivet set and the 3X rivet gun.  These dimples came out much nicer than the ones on the left aileron that I used the "C" frame on.

Leading edge attached to the balance weight. View of the end rib and leading edge


The photo above left shows the leading edge attached to the balance weight.  As I have so far, all the blind rivets are aircraft quality Cherry Max rivets.  In this case they are P/N CR3214-4-3.


Installing stiffeners in bottom skin Installing stiffeners in top skin

Next on the list was the installation of the stiffeners.  I back riveted them like I did to all of the other flight controls to this point.  I also installed them wet with sealer like I did with the left aileron.  I want to see if the cracking that they are trying to avoid is vibration between the stiffener and the trailing edge of the aileron skin so I am not going to put any sealer from the upper stiffeners to the lower ones.

Ready to squeeze the trailing edge Squeezing the trailing edge


Did I tell you that I like this 2X8 much better than the 2X4 that I used on the empennage flight controls?  It is a good idea to carefully analyze the plans for details like this.  I just knew that a 2X4 would work "just as good" when I was building the tail.  I was wrong.  In the photo at right it looks like I am really straining but actually I am trying not to bend the skin too far.


Solid rivets in the bottom skin to spar Riveting the bottom skin to the spar

As with the left aileron I installed solid rivets in the bottom skin to spar attachment.  The procedure is described in the left aileron narrative and worked beyond my expectations.  On this aileron I actually riveted the upper skin to the spar in the same fashion.  It took half as long and came out better.

Completed aileron Close up of end ribs


Above are two photos of the completed RH aileron.  It lays on the work bench nice and flat because I riveted it together sandwiched between the 2X8 and the workbench.


Attach fitting nutplate Inboard attach fitting

The drawing does not match the parts on the aft end rib.  They tell you to cut the rib so that you can put an AN365-1032 nut on the middle bolt.  The spar is pre-drilled for a nutplate so I installed a K1100-3 nutplate.  It is so close to the rib that you have to put a hole for clearance in the rib anyhow (arrow).  Go figure.  Above right is a photo of the attach fitting from the front

RH aileron installation Another view


In late February, I took the ailerons back to Tennessee.  I installed the right aileron on February 26, 2005.  The two photos above show the aileron installed.  The wing is upside down by the way.


RH aileron installation Hinge fitting and linkage

Above left is a photo of the aileron installation with the wing right side up.  At right is a close-up of the inboard hinge fitting which is also what the control linkage is attached to.

Spacer on inboard hinge Washers on outboard hinge fitting

You have to make two spacers on the inboard hinge fitting.  One spaces the control link to the inboard side of the fitting (shown above left).  The other spaces the fitting to the inboard side of the fitting on the wing (not shown).  The outboard hinge fitting gets spaced out with washers (right photo)

The right aileron is done for now.  It is time to move to the right flap..